January 29 Running the Gauntlet

We start early for the Taj and are rewarded with one of the most breathtaking sites I've ever seen. We did see the view from the other side of the river last night which was spectacular and interesting with the river and crematoriums and the sunset, but the morning visit to the Taj and its grounds could not be equaled. Shah Jahan built this monument to his wife of 19 years who died in childbirth. It's built of brick and faced with thick, almost non-porous white marble. All of the exterior decor is the marble inlaid with 20 kinds of semi-precious gems. The sight reduced me to tears. We were able to spend a good amount of time on our own, just being. Wonderful. We move to the Red Fort, home of Shah Jahan and other Mogul emperors. Jahan was eventually imprisoned by his son who did comply with his father's wish to be in a place that would allow him to view his monument to his beloved. We then stop at one of Mother Teresa's homes, this one in Agra. There are babies, mostly from unwed mothers - a great shame in Indian society - toddlers, and school children. Many more are disabled teenagers and adults with a separate section for the elderly. The house relies totally on donations. We bring our several-day collection of hotel soaps and shampoos and also give monetary gifts. As Sujay says, it may seem like a it's a drop in the ocean, but we must make a start. Lunch is in a sumptuous home about 10 minutes from the Agra Fort. The host is Indian-born but lived in the U.S. from age 2 until post-college. He returned to his family home in Agra after an arranged marriage which is still quite typical. He and his wife are both very warm and welcoming and the food is delicious. As is the case with most of the private estates, they are a little past their prime and we fear the owners may be experiencing some hard times with this economy. After lunch, we go for a demonstration of how marble is inlaid with semi-precious stones: mother-of-pearl, lapis lazuli, turquoise, carnelian, malachite and jasper. These are the stones and techniques used in the Taj Mahal and the results are as you'd expect - irresistible. I'll say no more. At the hotel, Sujay gives us a lecture on Indian politics. Like everything else in this country, it's complicated. But I've saved the best for last. As we move from place to place in Agra, we are BESET by the most aggressive street vendors I've ever encountered. We've learned to circle when they approach and never to speak or make eye contact. A few of us have made mistakes, myself included. Joan says it's like feeding pigeons. You start with one......