May 10 and May 11 The Shoes

Our last day in Budapest was spent keeping in front of the rain.  Ron and I decided to walk across the Chain Bridge into Pest where we will await Jackie and Larry who’ve taken the bus.  We want to see one of the memorials from WWII - The Shoes on the Bridge.

There are 60 pairs of rusted period shoes cast from iron in various sizes and styles. The shoes are for children, women, businessmen, sportsmen etc. and we spend some time walking along the bank, thinking about what happened.   Behind the sculpture lies a stone bench inscribed as follows: "To the memory of the victims shot into the Danube by Arrow Cross militiamen in 1944–45.” 

While we are waiting for Jackie and Larry, we talk with a Big Bus employee who is from Cameroon.  I admit I had to look it up on a map and see it’s just south of Nigeria with a population of 22 million.  He’s ended up here after his girlfriend became pregnant and came home to Hungary.  He's been in the country eight years now, speaks several languages including Hungarian (no small feat) and is very personable.  He is somewhat limited in his employment options since he lacks a European passport - he tried and failed to get a job on the River ships.  In his opinion, the Hungarians are less than happy than their western neighbors because of the depressed economy and low wages.  Things seem to be improving, albeit slowly.  

We get back on the bus, heading to a shopping area we’ve read about but stop first to get a coffee and a bowl of Hungarian goulash for me.  (It’s really more like a nice soup.)  We have good success with securing last gifts for friends and families and go off in search of Subway Sandwiches for the others to get lunch. Back to our hotel on the bus when the rain starts.  Good timing.  We prepare for our early departure Wednesday morning when we are up and out by 6:30 AM. Everything is smooth en route to Zurich and then, at last, we are on the plane and headed home.  There is nothing quite like going home - LAX, and Customs and all.  One confession. In spite of past experiences, I neglect to remove an apple from my luggage and we are herded to the Agricultural Line where we spend an extra 30 minutes waiting for our turn for the X-ray machine where we gladly turn over the offending fruit.  Ron exercised remarkable restraint, saying very little, bless him.  And, finally, we are out and en route to Bennington Street.  Happy.

May 9 A View Like No Other

It's Monday and we are leaving the Viking Modi for our hotel in the castle district of Budapest.  So, a few reflections on the cruise part of the journey.  The staff earns an "A" for friendliness, care, availability and good humor.  Whatever the problem, they wanted to solve it and quickly.  The food, while plentiful, was okay but not always on the mark.  I did enjoy the breakfasts and the good salad bar available at every lunch if you were in the main dining room.  As to the program, the included city walks focused always on the old sections and tourist shops.  You could, of course,  select the somewhat pricey optional excursions if those were of interest.  The accommodations were excellent as was the cabin service.  The four of us found the trip a bit sedentary with too much down time.  the only common areas were the lounge and occasionally the upper deck.  More sitting.  Except for a few, the guests were seniors and some quite compromised.  Admirable, really. I did like most of the lectures and found that talking to others, especially the staff, was fun.   And we had our friend Jacqueline, a treasure.  The concierge and the program director were especially talented.  I would recommend Viking but maybe a shorter cruise for those more active.

We are shuttled from the Modi to the Hilton where we leave our luggage and strike out on our own.  We RUN by the tour groups as we are untethered and kicking up our heels.  We've purchased tickets on the Big Bus - a hop on hop off scenario.  Pretty soon the afternoon is gone and we are weary.  Among other sights, we've seen St. Stephen's Cathedral where I light candles as I've done all over Europe, asking for blessings upon my dear family.  It's the largest cathedral in Hungary and stunning. One of our guides told us that during the Communist occupation, the government took note and those who attended church were disadvantaged.  Although they were highly qualified, her mother was overlooked as a flight attendant and her uncle denied entry to the university to study medicine because both were practicing Catholics.  

Back at the hotel, Ron wonders if we'll end up in the basement because we are the last to get our rooms.  Au contraire, we are up on the fifth floor with probably the most spectacular view I have had or will ever hope to have.  A large picture window overlooks the Danube with views of the Chain Bridge and the impressive Parliament building which is completely lit up at night along with the rest of the city that flanks the river.  Mesmerising.  I neglected to mention that on Sunday night the Modi's captain got permission from the harbor master to sail north on the river circling Madeleine Island.  This took place about 9 PM when the city was ablaze with lights.  A high point.

May 8 Taking the Waters

Happy Mother's Day!  What a beautiful place to be and how glorious the day!  I was despairing yesterday of being able to complete our activities but I think it's going to work out just fine beginning with a tour of Budapest.  The city was originally two - Buda on the hilly side and Pest (Pescht) on the flat side.  A series of beautiful bridges now connect them and the two have become one.  

The city was heavily bombed during the war and suffered mightily during the post war period when the communists were in power.  The old buildings were razed and replaced with the worst-looking cement structures - office buildings and apartments with shoddy workmanship and poor materials and a complete lack of architectural interest.  Think a flat box with aluminium framed windows in beige or tan adjacent to a beautiful 18th or 19th century building.  The residents called it communist gothic.  Fortunately these are limited to a few areas on the Pest side.  

I forgot to mention that we had a superb speaker from the University in Vienna who gave an hour lecture on the history of Austria - a country that went from world dominance to its current small size.  Vienna holds most of the country's population since it was designed to be the capital of an empire.  I now understand better its close ties to Hungary and its alliance with Germany and Hungary during the war.  And also why my Romanian facialist thought Hungary, her husband's country, was not much to be admired.  [The Romanians and the Russians fought the Hungarians in a fierce battle during WWII.]  Fate spared the Austrians ending up behind the Iron Curtain while Hungary was part of the USSR until it disbanded.  The wages are low here but the economy has slowly improved and with the tourist industry it continues to do so.

At 2 PM we headed to The Szechenyl, one of the largest natural mineral springs complexes in Europe.  We started in one of the huge outdoor pools and then meandered indoors where there were many more pools of various temperatures.  I braved two pools of 70 degrees - not bad if you start in a hot pool and it's very healthy.  I was alone in both the cold pools and laughed to myself when a few men stepped in only to scurry out.  One intrepid guy did come in for a minute after I said, 'You can do it!' 

Back on the ship, a fine dinner with a rose for each of the ladies on board.  Good day and good night.

May 7 Bring In the Old...

Our second day in Vienna dawned warm and if my strength had permitted, I'd have done sun salutations in praise and thanks for the golden rays shining upon us.  I concluded that Ron and I live in our perfect place, especially this time of year when the yard is blooming and there is a possibility of swimming.  But meanwhile, we will enjoy where we are now.

We've looked around and decided that we will walk across a very impressive bridge and go to the top of a modern sky scraper for a panoramic view of Vienna.  Just negotiating the bridge took us about 20 minutes and then we wended our way to the ultra modern building.  Adding to the somewhat cold feel of the area, the place was damn near deserted except for a few stray stalwarts going into the gym located nearby.  Apparently, all offices in Vienna are closed on Saturdays.  We found the proper way in, paid our entry fee, and received very precise instructions on how to go from one elevator to the next, not touching anything and being prepared for the doors to open upon our arrival.  And we were totally alone.  A bit on the eerie side since we went up 58 floors on 2 separate elevators.  At the top we walked around the glass-enclosed area coming abruptly to one end and realizing we needed to retrace our steps and to see all the views.  A bit hard to get by the dirty glass and the  general unkempt look of it all.  We commented that the Germans would have been up there with a power washer getting rid of the cob webs, putting a sparkle on the windows and generally tidying up the place.  I figured the Austrians were a little too busy having fun, eating and drinking.  Like my Swedish side, the Germans take care of business first and when the work is done they do as they please.  My sisters will recall our Swedish neighbor, Mrs. Johnson, sweeping her sidewalks.  The Germans ja, the Austrians nein.  

So interesting that there is a different culture in spite of the fact that the Austrians and Germans speak the same language and live right next door to each other.  We also notice that the streets and parks here are not spotless like they are in Germany.  A few things needed tending and there was more graffiti, for instance.  Excuse me but that shit is an eyesore.  The modern section, fortunately, still had its charm because there was a wonderful park being enjoyed by many people.  The Austrians like the outdoor life.  I must say, too, that the old city is very beautiful and the bridges especially.  

Back at the ship, it was lunch time and then I knew rest was in order.  Ron, Jackie and Larry took a cab into a shopping area but came back empty handed so I didn't regret my down time one bit.

May 5 and May 6 Working My Way to Wellness

So I am back - sort of.  Listening to all the noise in my head when I exhale.  Well, I've always been easily amused and according to the Internet it is not a concern unless you're wheezing on the inhale too.  I am not nor does it hurt to breathe so I am eschewing antibiotics at the moment and will bore you no more with the state of my health.  

I was incommunicado on Thursday, May 5th when the ship stopped first in Melk, Austria, and most took a morning tour of the Abbey. It is 900 years old and was fortified by the Benedictines after they got the palace from Leopoldo II of Bamburg.  It contains 80,000 medieval manuscripts as well as some remaining monks.  

In the afternoon we landed at Krems but that was another town I enjoyed from my cabin.  Austria has a population of more than 8 million people and is about the size of Maine.  It has a checkered past since it threw in its lot with Germany in WWII and we know how that turned out.    

Friday I bucked up for the walking excursion in old town Vienna.  How could I not?  Not at my liveliest but after the tour there was down time during which I sat on a stone bench outside St. Stephen's Cathedral.  Several German ladies spoke to me and I nodded and smiled.  I would catch a word or two but they seemed to lose interest when they found out no conversation would be forthcoming.  Then a young Asian man sat down with a guide book in English and I ended up talking with him for 20 minutes.  He was traveling alone - from the Philippines but working as a graphic artist in Dubai - and was going to several countries in Europe.  He was traveling by bus and if the trip was later in the day, he slept on the bus, saving himself the price of a hotel.  Ah youth.  

Vienna is a lovely city despite being almost destroyed during WWII (80percent.)  The Viennese have much pride in the fact that Mozart lived here the last 10 years of his life and created some of his most famous operas during that time.  And there is Strauss, the Waltz King.  When our tour director, Petra, asked the group who could waltz, Ron and I were pleased to be able to say, of course!  Those well-rounded educations of yesteryear when we learned to read music and sing and were taught the basic ball room dances and even square dancing.

After the morning tour I made my way to the cabin, wondering how I would feel later that evening when we were to leave for The Vienna Residence Orchestra and our much-anticipated evening concert.  I took a long nap and by skipping dinner I reserved enough strength to attend the concert and to enjoy it thoroughly.  The first half was devoted to Mozart and included ballet performances and arias.  After a brief intermission, we heard Johann Strauss marches and of course the incomparable waltzes.  It was wonderful.  That afternoon, Jackie and Larry had seen the Vienna Boys Choir which they could not say enough about.  A very good day for music lovers.

May 4 They are Dropping Like Flies

I am afraid my turn is coming.  Ron went down during the night but Jackie and Larry are back up.  Sort of.  Ron stayed in bed all day so I am hoping that he will be okay in the morning.  We have started to look carefully at our fellow passengers and I think at least 25% are ill, maybe more since many are walking wounded.  A goodly number of crew are visibly unwell - it does not build confidence and God knows it does not bode well for those of us still okay.  You have your choice of sick light - only the cold - or the real deal which is a don't-leave-your-cabin intestinal bout followed by the cold.  Unprintable thought going through my head now.  Even sick light can be debilitating since Larry was in his cabin an entire day.  I have made up my mind that I shall be well, especially since we are attending an evening concert in Vienna in a few days, one of the few extra tours that we purchased.  Wish me luck dear readers.

Today was our last in Germany in the charming city of Passau.  True is was raining but not quite so cold and not quite such a downpour so we go on without complaint.  This is a city in which three rivers converge - the Ilz, the Danube, and the Inn.  It's a pretty place and we had a wonderful guide so we all enjoyed our walking tour.  The Jewel in the Crown was the 30-minute organ rehearsal in St. Stephen's on the world's biggest cathedral organ.  There are actually 5 organs located at various places inside the cathedral and only one organist.  He plays them concurrently which was made possible only after the Siemans Company created a main keyboard allowing this. The organ(s) have almost 18 thousand pipes and 233 registers and do produce a mighty sound.  I bought a CD of the organist playing Bach, Beethoven and other composers so we will have an impressive soundtrack on our photo DVD of our European River Cruise.  I keep forgetting to mention that I post photos daily on Facebook but have not quite figured out how to include them with the blog.  I shall seek some technical assistance after this trip.

Back on board for lunch and with the wet and gloom we were hard pressed to return to town, having exhausted the shopping possibilities and certainly not seeking food or drink since they are too much in abundance on the ship.  

Later:  We enjoyed the quietude this afternoon, especially now that I am edging toward a cold.  Heavy sigh.  We kept dinner light and simple on the deck.  It's now time to admit that I've sunk to a new low with my wardrobe and wore my pj bottoms to dinner.  Okay, okay - they look like crop pants and who noticed anyway?

May 3 Culture Club

Bavaria is one of Germany's 16 states and is 51% Catholic, having turned the tide with the Counter Reformation to ensure that Martin Luther didn't get too much of a toehold starting in the 1600's.  As is was, several cathedrals went back and forth between Catholic and Lutheran.  The guides we've had in the Bavarian cities reflect the division with yesterday's declaring proudly for the Catholics and today's telling us twice that she was a Lutheran.  I almost broke through the crowd to stand in solidarity with her but decided she didn't really need me so I kept my church affiliation to myself.  Oh and today's town of Regensberg makes an even stronger case for its Catholic majority since it is the home town of Pope Benedict XVI who was known as Joseph Ratzinger when he lived here as a boy.  His controversial youth included what our guides are quick to describe as his compulsory conscription into Hitler's German Youth and his military service as a "reluctant soldier"in the German Infantry.  

Thank God the rain has been held at bay and we enjoyed some sunny stretches for our tour and shopping expedition that extended through the afternoon.  Larry opted for a rest on the ship after lunch but Ron accompanied the ladies during our later walk around.  I think we are saving our big shopping for Vienna and Budapest.  Still, you never know what treasures are to be found in these smaller places.

We had dinner again with our friend Jacqueline and afterwards heard three young opera singers and a very talented pianist from the Munich and Nuremburg theaters.  We all got to join in on "Edelweiss" and we didn't sound too bad since the professional singers were quite loud.  A bit late to bed with an early wake up on the horizon.  Ach du lieber.  

May 2 Keeping It Real

We had a long pause this morning when our ship could not pass under a low bridge.  The water is very high and the deck chairs and equipment have all been flattened for a few days making the upper deck unavailable for our use.  This was not anything we missed during our rainy days!  The crew scrambled to put down the remote steering counsel which was no small task, and after about 45 minutes of frantic effort we were able to proceed on to Nuremberg.  

Once on the tour bus, we went past the still-used courthouse in the newer section of town where they held the Nuremberg trials and then we drove on on to the Nazi Party Rally Grounds which now stand huge and empty. Our guide showed us photos of Hilter at the Rally Grounds along with thousands of troops and vehicles all parading in honor of Der Fuhrer.  This was the first time on our tour we've heard a frank discussion of the horrors of the Nazi regime and it was highly sobering to see for ourselves the places where Hilter rose to power. Nuremberg was described as the site of the fanatical party rallies, the beginning of the boycotts of Jewish businesses and the enactment of the Nuremberg Laws that outlawed Jewish citizenship in Germany.  

We were disappointed that we were not allowed to stop at the courthouse or the Rally Grounds to take photos but the tour emphasized the medieval part of the city which was largely destroyed during the war and has since been rebuilt for the enjoyment mainly of tourists.  We did have an option to pay for a WWII tour that in hindsight I wish we would have done.  The old town is beautiful, the shops fun and the food good, but I think we were ready for a deeper look into what happened here that affected the lives of millions of people then and now.  I think of what my dad experienced as a young American soldier liberating the death camps.  My sisters and I found interesting documentation about this with his papers after he died and I wish I would have talked more with him when I had the chance.  

Nuremberg is a fascinating city and the second largest in Bavaria.  It was literally flattened in early 1945 by the allies and has been almost totally rebuilt using the original stones for the old town areas when possible.  You can see the stones that were original in the buildings (they have a hole in them) and the new ones that were added.  The old cobblestones streets are uneven and rough while the new sections are even and easier to walk on but blend nicely with the old.  You do get the feeling that the German people put a great deal of focus on getting past the war years and what befell them under Hitler and are anxious to move on.   The reunification of East and West Berlin has apparently been economically and sociologically challenging as well, but the country is pretty amazing for what it's gone through.  Neat, tidy, things running smoothly, and quite a lot of care taken with natural resources.  Friendly people and excellent English speakers.  Impressive. 

May 1. I'm Turning into a Tammy

Wynette, that is.  It's one of Ron's observations about certain women who like their wine, and I am wondering if that is that he will be saying about me now with my glass of red wine every night at dinner.

That aside, we were on the ship all morning sailing to Bamberg where we toured on foot this afternoon.  It's a medieval city modelled after Rome and built on seven hills, each topped by a church.  I guess the church's influence was marginal or perhaps the numerous witch hunts that took place in the town were a result of same.  Men, women and children all fell under suspicion and were unceremoniously burned at the stake, including 5 mayors of the city.  Rough job.

It's May Day and the town has turned out for the celebration which features - you guessed it - a lot of drinking.  The revellers entertain us with song and other antics.  Part of this is no doubt because Bamberg has a wonderful university and the famous smoky beer.  Our Tour Director likens it to beer that has been left on the kitchen counter for a week straight - and oh - with a piece of ham in it the whole time.  Euuuwww!  No wonder it's called "rauchbier".  

Bamberg was one of the few cities not destroyed in WWII and so it's retained many medieval structures.  We spent quite a bit of time walking in the town and found the Jewish Cemetery and buildings in the old quarter quite interesting.  Unfortunately, the cemetery was somewhat unkempt with weeds knee high but all was green and it's spring when everything looks lovely anyway.  

We were bused back to the ship that was not at the docking point for 30 minutes after our arrival and it was pretty chilly standing in wait.  Glad to be back on board for coffee and dinner.  As you might imagine, we've gotten to know many people on board since there are only about 170 guests.  Some are interesting to talk with and some we'd just as soon leave to their own devices.  Ron and I had a nice chat with another couple from Britain and I struck up a conversation with a woman from Northern Wisconsin out on the deck.  I think we are among the younger guests although one young couple is traveling with parents.  Reminds me of John and Caroline with us on the Road Scholar trip to Scandinavia.  We can't help but notice dinner attire that runs the gamut from glittery to grunge.  I think we are more toward the grunge end since we can't quite muster it up after our day-long walking tours.  We comb our hair, wash our hands, and call it a day.

April 30 Ein, Zwei, G'Suffa

We've left Jackie on board to recover from an intestinal issue that came on last night, poor biddy.  We're hopeful that after a day's rest she'll be good to go tomorrow.  Ron, Larry and I join a walking group bound for the Bishop's Residenz in Wurtzburg.  

Since the bishops of the Catholic Church were also princes, they were at home in this opulent baroque palace with its famous grand staircase.  The steps were made low to allow ladies to glide up and down in their long, heavy dresses.  Apparently, showing one's ankle was scandalous but revealing a deep décolletage was expected.  The palace was built between 1720 and 1744 and features the largest ceiling fresco in the world created over a two-year period by an Italian painter imported for the job.  One of the rooms was covered in mirrors connected by gold leaf.  Over the top to be sure.

I note that the German guides give only perfunctory information about towns and buildings ruined during World War II as happened at the Residenz where only one area was spared destruction.  Many rooms were restored postwar based on photos of the originals and removal of various treasures prior to the bombing.  An American Army officer was instrumental in planning and beginning the restoration work.

This region of Germany is noted for wine production and the culture puts quite an emphasis on drinking - beer and wine mostly.  We are encouraged at all the stops to try the local brews and to take advantage of the vintages produced here.  Puts me in mind of the drinking songs I learned in the German classes I took in school which I imagine are no longer part of the curriculum.  

After the tour, the guys and I walk back to the ship, putting on over 5 miles today.  Good thing because I think I'd have to run home from Europe to counteract all the food I've been consuming.  We settle for a lighter dinner on the front deck since it is the three of us.  Blessedly quiet, a lovely twilight, and a good dinner.  For better or worse, I discover that they serve sugarless ice cream and here I was having fruit for dessert. Oh boy!

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April 29 Something in Common

We are sailing all morning and have no need to hurry so I say in bed under my comforter and wait for Ron to bring me coffee, the dear.  After breakfast we have a glass blowing demonstration by one of the artisans from Wertheim, a town famous for glass.  He was taught the craft by his father and grandfather and has worked closely with Dale Chihuly over the years, collaborating with him on the installation at the Bellagio in Las Vegas.  It was entertaining and informative and fun to look at all the items for sale.  I do, however,  think the pieces were second to the artistry of Maui Glass in Makawao.

After lunch (yes we eat constantly) we dock in Miltenberg a medieval city with remnants of the wall around the town still standing.  We did not go up to the castle which was begun around 1200 but enjoyed looking at it high atop the hill adjacent to the town.  We did climb up to the Jewish Cemetery and were sad to see the grass knee high and the place untended.  Perhaps there is no one left from any of these families.

Our guide was lively and informative.  Originally from South Africa, she married a German man and ended up in Miltenberg where she lives with her husband and 2 daughters who've grown up and left home.  She mentioned that is costs almost 2000 euros to get a driver's license in Germany but renewal, at least, is free.  After her young daughter got 2 speeding tickets in close succession, the girl had to pay enormous fines and then see a psychiatrist to determine if she had a mental defect that was causing her to misbehave.  Hum.

Apparently we won her over because we've had dinner two nights running with Jacqueline, our elderly British friend.  She talked about going to India 16 times in connection with an orphanage she and her husband supported. On her first visit, she contracted dysentery and was gravely ill for 3 months.  We compared notes since I was also sick in India and discovered we'd both had a black tongue which was, to put it mildly, quite disconcerting.  I got well within three weeks which I credit to immediate care from the doctors that were in our tour group and to good doses of Cipro which I started taking on Joan's advice.  Did the trick.  On a happier note, both Jacqueline and I love Jane Austen and the Brontes.

April 28 The Sun'll Come Out Tomorrow

Awoke this morning to the sun shining brightly on the Rhine which made our bus ride to Marksburg Castle near Koblenz very scenic.  Built in the Middle Ages, the castle was more for defense and less for residence and it was the only castle in this area not damaged during the War.   We hiked up a steep winding road to the castle and had a nice tour.  Back to the ship which was traveling up stream the whole time we were gone, traversing though numerous locks.  It took several hours for the ship to travel what we accomplished on a bus in 30 minutes or so.

The Rhine starts in Lake Constance in the Swiss Alps before joining with the River Main (pronounced Mine.)  We are travelling along the Rhine Gorge, a most beautiful hilly area of the middle Rhine and home to castles and churches too numerous to count.  It is particularly beautiful when the terrain becomes hilly and you see the terraced vineyards and the pear and apple trees in full bloom.   One of the highlights was seeing Lorelei Rock and the small statue of the maiden.  It's easy to see why the story came into being because the river is deep, narrow and curving in this spot and requires a good captain to navigate through.  The entire gorge is 45 miles long which we accomplished in weather sunny enough to allow occasional forays to the open air deck.  We spent the entire afternoon and evening on the ship so had ample time for relaxation and being out on our private stateroom deck.  Sehr gut.

April 27 A Long Time Coming

By the time we were done yesterday, it was a bit too late to give an accounting of our day.  We started in Koln - Cologne - with a walking tour of the old town culminating at the Cathedral.  Started in 1248, the cathedral was not completed for 632 years.  Since it's made of sandstone, the exterior is almost black, a result of the pollution generated by the adjacent and busy railway station.  I joined in the spirit of it and lit a candle once inside.  With great reluctance, we left the cathedral and went back out into the pouring down freezing rain immediately making our way to a department store for more warm clothing.  My sharp-eyed shopping companion, Miss Jackie, spotted a soft zipper sweater on sale for 10 euros. Good job!  And the best news is that I am now in possession of the perfect outfit for our outings.  You have your tee shirt, your long sleeved shirt, your new light jacket, your down vest, and Ron's now discarded windbreaker since he bought a heavier jacket. Neckwear is a thick scarf purchased at Kinderdijk and head gear is a newsboy cap and the windbreaker hood.  I am obviously not going for cute.  

After lunch and properly outfitted, we made our way to the Lindor Chocolate Factory only to enter with the student body of at least one entire middle school.  We decided to forego the factory and contented ourselves with the gift shop where appropriate souvenirs were gathered and purchased.  Ron was a bit chagrined when he realized that there was no chocolate for him.  Hey - each man for himself!

We walked on to the railroad bridge which, like several others in Europe, is resplendent with every variety of locks declaring the endless love of all the couples who placed them there.  The locks must add thousand of pounds of weight to the bridge.  Braving the bluster and holding on to our hats, we made it back to our ship, The Modi, for comfort and cafe au lait.

After dinner we stayed up late for the viola, clarinet and piano players from a local music school who played an hour long concert of mostly classical music.  It was just wonderful and a wonderful way to end our day.  

April 26 Tilting at Windmills

Underway at 11 PM last night, we left Amsterdam and made our way upstream to Kinderdijk, a World Heritage site and home to 19 of The Netherlands' 28 windmills.  These days, the mills are used only to pump water from the polders (areas of land reclaimed from the sea) into the surrounding water ways.  We learned  that the dykes enable towns like Kinderdijk to be below sea level so that when you see houses over the dykes from the ship, it's often only the roofs that are visible.  

Our guide for the windmill tour and others like him are volunteers.  Each windmill has a trained miller who also volunteers his time and who must work each weekend.  In exchange, they receive free rent and live in the mills full-time.  

As we have come to expect we had rain, sun and sleet during the 2-hour tour.  We have totally fine-tuned our outdoor wardrobes so we were comfortable until the sleet blew at an angle into our faces.  Well, small price to pay for the great experience of seeing one of the icons of The Netherlands.  Tulips yesterday, windmills today.  Ta da!

We took off at noon today and are making our way to Cologne.  We've been in Germany since dinner although you'd not know that unless someone informed you.    

Dinner turned out to be pretty remarkable.  We had a table for 5 and after we were seated, a charming woman from the Isle of Wight sat down with us.  We had good conversation and after awhile, she somewhat reluctantly admitted that she was 86 years old.  Reluctant because she said that after people find out how old you are they eventually treat you differently and not in a good way.  

We spent quite a bit of time discussing the WW II and how it was for her to live through it as a child.  At the urging of her grandson, she submitted an accounting of her experiences to the British National Archives who accepted and published it.  All of this was modestly reported to us and in such an interesting way.  Her husband died 10 years earlier and she has continued to travel alone despite failing eyesight.  At the end of the meal, she came very close to each of us so that she could look into our faces.  We told her that she could eat dinner with us any time and she said, "No, probably not again because you know all about me now."  I think she can absolutely do as you please when you're 86.  At least I'm going to.

April 25 He is Nothing If Not Clever

Up a bit early to have breakfast, pack and get on board for a drive into the country.  It's our day for the incomparable Keukenhof Gardens, sketchy weather and all.  The name means "kitchen garden" and the garden originally supplied fruits and vegetables for the owners of the large estate on which it resided.  Redesigned to resemble an English garden in 1857, it did not take on it's current look until a group of flower bulb exporters came up with a plan to open the grounds as a spring garden. The first spectacular springtime opening was in 1950.  

This year it opened March 24th and will close on May 16 - its typical two-month season. The entire rest of the year is spent readying the grounds for the next spring time, replacing all the grass and planting no less than 7 million spring flowering bulbs.  

It is hard to take in and you want to run from one gorgeous bloom to the next.  Hyacinths, lilacs, the biggest amaryllis I have ever seen and the incomparable tulips.  I could not stop taking pictures - one after the other - as we encountered wonderful varieties of color, size and texture.   We were deterred only by the freezing rain, and when it started to soak us to the skin, we headed for the shelter and warmth on our bus.  Our consolation was that the flowers love the rain and the cold.

Back at the hotel, 70 of us milled about wet hungry and homeless.  Overpriced and mediocre (at best) food, a few annoying guests, and a two-hour wait led to Larry's delightful and most welcome plan.  He is nothing if not clever.  We made arrangements to leave our luggage and took a cab to the ship where we checked in all alone, found our staterooms and sauntered upstairs for a delightful buffet lunch.  

A little downtime in our rooms, a nice orientation and dinner, and off to bed.  Ah the good life.

April 24 What I Did For Love

A wonderful glass-walled restaurant on the canal and a good breakfast got us ready for our 2-hour walk this morning.  Our guide, an artist and 30-year Amsterdam resident, led us from our hotel to the Rijksmuseum describing the art and architecture of the city as well providing us a brief history and current culture.  The tax rate is either 35% or 52% depending on income level although, as in Scandinavia, people get a lot for their money.  Many people bike and each street has a bike lane - pedestrians beware.  We have the hang of it now although we've been chided a couple of times when we veered into the bike lane.  We watch for cars and bikes and use the reasonable cross walks counting on all to obey the rules.  

My fond hope for today was to do the walk and then to see both the Rijksmuseum, housing the Dutch masters, and the Van Gogh Museum.  Mr. Vincent is my favorite artist.  When the walk concluded at almost 12:30 PM and I saw the very lengthy line for the Rijksmuseum, I realized that I would have to pick only one museum to visit. Damn near Sophie's Choice.  

Oh - I forgot to mention that it was god-awful cold today with on and off rain and, yes, hail and sleet.  After 2 hours of that, my companions decided not to stand in the endless line for the museums.  I, as you might have guessed, would not be deterred.  I spotted  a likely line and after finding someone who spoke English, was assured that  this was it.  Cue the hail.  Brief respite.  Cue the rain and gale force winds.  My teeth threatened to start chattering but I quelled the urge because I figured once I started with that, all hope would be lost.  The line moved on by inches and I started to get suspicious that people were not queueing properly and that some persons crowding near the front were getting others to purchase their tickets.  I am admitting this only reluctantly since such thinking is not me at my finest.  By the time I got to the front I had read the sign that said "Fast line (NOT) Cash Only." I was then instructed that mine  was the credit card line although the distinction of the two was lost on me.  Much confusion followed with me not getting the picture that you could convert to your own currency or keep the charge in euros.  I finally told the woman that I did not care!  And she said kindly, "Well then you can just push one."  I was also forewarned that my entry time would be 2 PM - 45 minutes hence - and that I needed to make my way to the blue door of the distant museum.  I cleverly made my way to a likely group of buildings only to find an enormous queue and no prominent entry, let alone a blue door.  Fortunately, the guides were helpful and told me the lines were for those without tickets - score for me! - and that there was no longer a blue door.  Hah!  I was waved vaguely toward a building where I would be able to enter immediately causing me to damn near wilt with relief.  

Still $#!! freezing.  It took a few more guides before I found the proper entry but now had to wait 10 more minutes outside.  You know I had my phone out and was checking the time constantly even though my head was telling me that I should people-watch and enjoy being in front of the Van Gogh Museum.  That would have worked save for the bone-chilling wind.  At one minute prior to my time slot I entered the museum only to be called back to the turnstile because my ticket wound not scan until  2 on the dot.  I literally did a little dance during the final 10-second countdown.

The good news is that the Van Gogh Museum was damn near a spiritual experience.  There were a few paintings I had to tear myself away from and kept wanting to return to.  Although the place was crowded, people were respectful and we all got to see the breathtaking work.  I was almost overwhelmed to think of Vincent dying at age 37 but like Don McLean said, the world was too much for someone so beautiful.  I think of what the world lost with Anne Frank and Vincent Van Gogh dying so young, but rejoice in all they managed to give us during their brief lives.  

April 22 - Leaving Without a Hitch

Packed, transported, checked in, and admitted to the KLM Lounge with time for a leisurely snack and a cup of coffee before heading to our gate.  On board, the preferential treatment started immediately with attention from our very tall Dutch flight attendant.  (I subsequently found out that the Dutch people are among the tallest in the world which I have now observed for myself).  I did enjoy a movie, the breakfast more than the dinner, and the coffee, as well as a long nap which had to suffice for a night's sleep.  More good fortune upon landing when we heard Jackie and Larry calling our names.  Finally out into the Amsterdam brisk air and then on to our hotel where we were treated to a room with a view of the canal - one of several that transverse the city. 

We walked a bit around the hotel and since it was Saturday, we saw several spirited rowing contests on the canal where young people were cheered on by their parents.  All of this took place in blustery and chilly weather.  After an early dinner we headed to the Anne Frank House.  I decided to read Anne's diary again and was taken aback when I realized that she was born less than 20 years before I was and that she shares a birthday with my daughter Laura.  What Anne lived through was terrible but she left a poignant and unforgettable legacy for us all.  Quite an end to our first day in Amsterdam.