This I Know is True

• Jackie and Larry Phillips are wonderful traveling companions.  When put to the test, we all passed with flying colors
• My dear husband is always there for me - in sickness and in health
• We can’t take anything for granted
• Our earth is fragile and we must care for it and for all of its creatures
• We are lucky beyond imagining to live in the United States
• Many people in this world lack what we consider basic necessities yet they are loving and kind 
• It’s pretty fun to be treated like royalty
• At our age we deserve business class when on marathon flights
• I will never forget Africa - it’s people, culture and unbelievable natural wonders
• I will never go to another zoo

It Takes a Village

We are going to have an easy time of it for our last full day at the camp including a leisurely breakfast - a good thing  since we are all pretty well done in and are contemplating our departure.  

We cannot help but think what awaits us in the U.S.  Water that is clean, plentiful and hot when you turn the tap one way and cold when you turn it the other.  You can drink it. From the tap. Most any place in the country. The toilet will probably flush and you can find seat covers in many public toilets. More important, places you go are likely to HAVE a public toilet. Close by.  If you are in a U.S. Park, you'll probably know where the toilets are and can plan accordingly.   Your bathroom shower will likely provide full body coverage at more than a trickle and you needn't be concerned about the lack of water pressure unless you are washing clothes and showering simultaneously.  I care more about these things as I get older.

Be Here Now.  Mid-morning we set out for a local village, walking the last 20 minutes with Pere who looks out for the occasional animal that might find us interesting enough to investigate. David continues in the Land Rover and fails to tell us that our walk would be all uphill. He mistakenly might have thought that it didn't matter. So we arrive at the village a bit wilted and take in the scene that we have heretofore only seen from the road. 

A young Masai woman invites us into her home that she's made from branches cemented with cow dung. We duck down to enter and must go ahead by feel since the interior is dark save for a very small window atop the fire pit area. We sit down carefully on what turns out to be beds separated by a small common area where the cooking is done. We see this after our eyes adjust to the near darkness.  The man sleeps on one bed and the woman and children in the other. There are  two small  pens near the door that house the baby goats and calves when needed. We find out that the woman is married to an employee at our camp and that she has been to school long enough to learn quite a bit of English. Later, when we come back from out walk around the village, the men demonstrate how to start a fire without matches (which they do very quickly) and the women invite us to the little market they have created on the ground to display their beadwork and other hand-made items.  It is fun to pick things out but not to bargain. I wisely turn all my goods over to David and ask him to do his best to arrive at a fair price for both the buyers and the sellers. We appreciate the honor of being invited to the village. 

Lunch at the camp. We are being so civilized today!  We go to David's son's boarding school this afternoon and as luck would have it, it's Parents's Day so everyone is festive and enjoying their family visit after not having been together for three months.  The head of the school takes us on a tour which is quite sobering for us Westerners.  We see the boys' dorm which is in disarray and in need of repair.  Many of the mattresses are thin with the ticking coming out of the sides and very little bedding on the beds.  The school kitchen takes some getting used to as does the description of what they eat for each meal.  There are no overweight children because food is not plentiful.  There is a school canteen at which the children eagerly assemble, spending the money from their parents on sweet treats.  All the families bring food for a picnic and the children take delight in stuffing themselves.  The girl' s' dormitory is fairly new and nicely kept.  Girls are neat, boys not so much.  There are plans to build a new dormitory for the boys.  Good news.

We meet David's wife and their young daughter who is still at home.  When she is old enough, she will join her brother at this school.  The oldest son is at a high school closer to David's home.  The school we visit has high marks in academic achievement so enrollment there helps to insure admission to better high schools and the university.  Considering that David started life in a Masai Village, having three kids in private schools on academic tracks is pretty amazing.  

Driving in the Dark

Before we left for Africa I took some time memorizing the Big Five - elephant, white rhino, leopard, lion and Cape Buffalo.  I thought this described the most sought-after animals on a game drive but, in fact, the term was rooted in the days when the European hunters came after big game concluding that these were the most dangerous animals to kill.  Some of my joy at photographing the Big Five diminished, but I had to get over it because the term is well-used by many, including those who love the land and the animals.   

Our first full day in Leieshwa Camp started at 3:45 A.M. when we arose to prepare for our hot air balloon ride over the Masai Mara.  A swallow of coffee helped as did our scout Pere's keen eye.  He spotted some lions near the road eating a beastie they'd recently killed.  We had no idea how he was able to direct David to the exact place where the action was occurring.  On we went in the dark, staying on the road and avoiding most of the big ruts until we got to the Balloon site.  

Our captain was a crusty, no nonsense guy with a dry sense of humor (I was seated next to him) and a wonderful skill set.  I had no sense of anything but peace while aloft and never a thought but that we were completely safe.  Not long into the flight, we came close to a river where we saw the elusive rhino with a horn of vast proportions standing near the river bank.  The guides think there are less than 20 rhinos in the entire Mara which is a bit over 700 square miles.  This stroke of luck completed our sighting of the Big Five.  

A good breakfast and on we went for a full-day game drive.  Later, Larry was designated to request the lunch stop and to tell David that we would not mind heading back to the camp after one more search for the leopards said to be in the area.   We'd also take a final look at the two cheetahs we'd seen earlier scouting a large group of wildebeests.  They were looking for babies but failed to find a proper target which left us denied (or spared) a look at the hunters in action.  Some things in nature are hard to accept and it can be quite challenging being an observer.

We also decided that an evening game drive (starting around 9 P.M.) was not in the cards so we braved disappointing David again by saying we'd enjoy the sunset drive but that there'd be no late night in our immediate future.  He graciously accepted our plan and we set off for the sunset viewing area which included many animal sightings  along the way.  We saw hoards of giraffes called a tower when in a standing group and a journey when they are on the move.  For sunset, Pere gathered wood, made a fire, set up our chairs, and opened some wine.  Jackie and I had to leave the campsite for the nearest bush before we settled down, but we enjoyed the juxtaposition of roughing it with our long-stemmed wine glasses.  Not a bad life.

The Wows Have It

Today we leave Oliver's camp, Tanzania, and Chris. Hard day for goodbyes but we are happy that Chris can spend some time at home now. We set off for our five-hour drive to Kilimanjaro complete with our packed lunches to eat at the airport. It's a weekday so the towns and roadsides are busy with activity and travelers. We finally get through Arusha and in spite of traffic and a stop light that promotes gridlock, we are in good shape. Things deteriorate at little at the airport when the security check X-ray machine breaks down and we all stand waiting. Someone wandered over and looked at the machine, another was summoned and pushed some buttons and someone else turned off the breakers in our part of the airport.  A winning combination got things up and running but with delays, we despaired of making our connecting flight at the commuter airport in Nairobe.

When we got there we were shepherded quickly through various queues and found out the small plane waited for us. We stood and stared at it for almost 1/2 hour and then someone decided we were good to go.  Ron and I made the mistake of taking two back seats that were literally not able to accommodate our long legs and when I ended up smashed against the window, I almost sprinted over Ron to get up to an empty seat in the front.  In a minute he joined me because even with 2 seats to himself, he was bent in half. We buckled up, the passenger in the back passed up the water and the passenger in the front sent around the mints. A bit of a rev for the engines and we took off on the dirt runway and were airborne. Our airstrip was the first of three planned landings so off we went for our 40-minute flight to the Masai Mara.

Waiting faithfully was our guide David and his spotter, Pere, a Masai warrior.  We got into a well-loved rattletrap Land Rover and off we went at a speed dictated by some of the worst roads we'd encountered.  The sands in Chobe were a challenge they simply served to prepare us for what was afoot in the Mara. Our first game drive in Kenya started without ceremony, although we'd been up since before 6 that morning.  When we arrived at Leleshwa Camp near sundown, it was with no small relief that we had dinner and went to bed.

We found some time to laugh about the nicknames Chris and his fellow guides have for the different nationalities.  The Americans are "the Wows" because we say "Wow!" when we see great things.  We all became conscious of how often we do say "Wow", but we considered it a compliment.  What is better than enthusiasm for all the awesome things we are seeing in Africa?

The Tsetse Fly and I

A full day in Tarangire, Chris's favorite National Park. Larry and I leave a bit early with our armed guide, Milton, and a ranger from the park armed with a large bore elephant gun for a morning walk around camp.  We see many animals roaming and grazing including elephants and one lone Cape buffalo that required evading. Those beasties traveling alone have usually been ejected from the herd by the reining bull and are said to be pretty grumpy. I start the walk feeling somewhat unwell and take to some deep prayer along the way, knowing that it won't be easy to tend to me if I am unable to remain ambulatory. People who require more than first aid have to make it 45 minutes by vehicle to the air strip. I give thanks when I start to feel better and can enjoy all we are learning from Milton along the way.

When we get back, the four of us head out, taking our lunches packed to order because we are taken care of even when we are away from the camp. We are treated to a constant barrage from the tse tse flies and they are annoying creatures. They are attracted to various colors, including black, so they follow the Land Rover with it's black covered spare tire and black window tracks.  When we stop they come right in and enjoy a snack (us) whenever possible.  Bring out the bug juice.

We see more varieties of birds and animals including a harem of mongoose whom we find a source of amusement with their constant antics. Like the warthog, they are always busy although they don't seem sure of what they are up to. Like some people, yes?

Chris is our hero. We learn more about each other including that he is Catholic and that one of his brothers is a priest. He and his wife both work and they have two children. His wife's father is Muslim and refuses to meet Chris or to recognize his daughter's marriage. The wife's parents are divorced so at least they have the mother, who is Christian. We have seen some Muslim people here.  Islam is a prominent religion in East Africa.

A great dinner at camp with more conversation with the world travelers. Jackie and Larry are the first to go to their cabin, always with a guide, but soon they return. The ellies were eating dinner by our cabin (ah ha!) so they could not proceed. We, they, and Toni's family spent another half hour in the lodge until the coast was clear. Another great day in the bush. 

An Ellie on My Doorstep

We are saying good-bye to our beautiful Exploreans Village and making our way to Tarangire National Park and, eventually, our first bush camp.  We pass through Mosquito Village, so named for its many rice paddies, and we see many of the Masai people in colorful robes.  The occasional young man in black announces his  recent circumcision. He will need to wait a full year until he achieves warrior status after having undergone the procedure minus anesthesia or movement which is perceived as cowardice. Other robes with bright colors have been made in China and are bought cheaply in bulk. We know so well.

Our lessons about Africa continue in Tarangire where we see a clan of warthogs and a dazzle of zebra. Elephant, lion, and leopard are described in the singular but warthog,to describe a bunch of them, just doesn't seem right. They don't have the big animal status after all although I am fond of the homely little guys.

We arrive at Oliver's Camp late afternoon so are able to see around the grounds, albeit briefly, and to be shown to our tents which are a few minutes walk from reception.  Our tent is spacious with two beds, a desk and chair, open closet, bathroom with shower and a wonderful outside shower with a view of the sky and trees that can not be beat. It is my favorite part of the lodge. Our own porch with lounge chairs, and we were all set.  Communication with staff was via walkie talkie and each room came equipped with a big air horn. When we were ready for dinner staff came to walk us down.

We all ate together at a long table and quickly fell in love with Toni, a 13 year old Swiss girl on safari with her parents. Later she shyly asked for my email address and her mom told me later that it was because she wanted us to stay with them should we ever visit Switzerland.

Back in our cabins for the night, Ron quickly fell asleep. I was reading when I heard a slow Clomp, Clomp, Clomp, followed by Chomp, Chomp, Chomp. It came from two locations which sounded like they were inches from our cabin. A feeling of unease welled up in me when I remembered that all that separated me from a several ton animal was a thin piece of canvas. I woke up Ron to join in the hand-wringing which he promptly declined. I went to sleep myself about 20 minutes later, marveling at what a human being can get used to in short order.

Not Like I Imagined

After an early breakfast, we depart for the long-awaited  Ngorongoro Crater. We find out along the way that the name derives from the local peoples' description of the sound the bells make on their herds of goats.  We are a bit above 6,000 feet and we have to go up before we can come down.  At 10,000 feet we are enveloped in a beautiful cover of clouds and down we go on the switchback roads, amazed to hear that the elephants descend as well, seeking water. They occasionally resort to sitting down and sliding on their behinds when it's too steep.

As has happened frequently in Africa, this is nothing like I imagined. The Crater is a super large caldera akin to Yellowstone.  In fact our guide Chris was sent by his company to the US to visit Yellowstone. The caldera is 25 miles across and is 2 million years old. It is home to countless animals (over 25,000), many of whom never leave.  Others migrate during the rainy season, heading for the Serengeti. We were able to complete our sightings of the Big Five when we saw, in the distance, a rhino. Not a white rhino, but maybe that will come later. If not, we have been so lucky it does not matter.

There are multiple terrains within the Crater and various watering spots including a river, beautiful natural springs and the alkaline lake. All attract countless animals including what must have been thousands of pink flamingos. Unreal.

We cover most of the Crater during the day, returning home in a tired heap with time to rest just a bit before dinner. R, J, and L got massages but I rested quietly by myself. Those kids had two massages in one week.  We are all taking care of ourselves.

Three Times Through

At 5:30 A.M. I couldn't manage a swallow of coffee but while still not myself, I am so much better. Off we go at 6 A.M. for another flying adventure.  We arrive early at the  Nairobe airport because there were THREE security checkpoints in addition to baggage screening and the requisite immigration lines. At the gate we boarded stinky buses into which not another human being could have been crammed for a long, slow ride.  When we stopped, the cork flew out of the bottle and we were all flung toward the plane. We settled ourselves and our possessions for a 30-minute with me wondering why not drive. Not a good choice given road conditions so there you go. We meet Chris and Clara at the airport and learn that Chris will be our guide throughout our visit in Tanzania and that Clara is the local Born Free representative. We later learn that the exotic looking Clara is half Dutch and half African and that her Dutch relatives likely lost their land when their land leases expired, this the policy of the Tanzanian government that is now fifty yeas old.

Chris is just wonderful. He takes us on a game drive in Lake Manyara National Park and teaches us a lot about the animals and ecosystem of the area. We enjoy talking with him very much, especially about the Masai people who populate this area. We are tired when we arrive at Exploreans Lodge but quickly revive  when we see the absolutely stunning grounds and attentive staff who great us with herbal-scented towels and greetings of Jambo, hello in Swahili. The staff at the lodge speak Swahili, their native language and English, at minimum.

Our quarters are all private residences with a large living room that has a small office space and fireplace. The bedroom is huge with king size bed, another fireplace and an easy chair and footstool.  Each room contains a day bed, as well. Extra large bathroom with bench and a shower to accommodate two persons. When I stepped out onto our lanai, I could have reclined one the divan, or sat at the table. Instead I stood at the rail and watched an elephant across the way who watched me right back. Heaven, anyone?

The Louds

I laid low during the morning while the rest of the party went to the elephant rehabilitation center along with the hoards.  Ron mentioned to one of the staff upon exiting that the experience had been a bit frustrating because most of his attempts to get photos were thwarted. She quickly led them through a private area where they had a great photo op. This accommodation has been typical of our experiences in Africa where everyone seems to desire your happiness in the most gracious way. Customer service at its finest. I told our guide that it will be a shock to get home and to hear people say Get it yourself!

I should have opened with a discussion of breakfast.  Giraffe Manor is just outside Nairobi and aptly named. I got down to eat a bit late but in time for the feeding of the giraffes. Lynn stayed with us for a long time, eating out of our hands and in the case of the bravest ones (not I), eating a food pellet from between their teeth. Lynn gently pick it out, often with a kiss from her long and slobbery tongue.  Made feeding her over our breakfast table a bit tricky. Photos on Facebook.

Jackie and I went to a bead factory and store after lunch. It employs over 300 women which I enjoyed hearing although I was a little disappointed to learn that is  owned by a European woman. I hope she pays the workers decently.  There were quite a few things that required purchase.

Dinner was a challenge. We heard the party starting late afternoon with the other residents of our lodge gathering outside for cocktails.  We had to close the windows of our room to block out their voices. They could have been heard at the Hollywood Bowl without a microphone - trained for the stage, perhaps?  At dinner there were eleven people behind closed doors seated at one long table with the walls literally vibrating from their high volume and multiple conversations.  We endured it although I found myself fantasizing about standing up and asking them all to modulate their voices. (That is what my friend's mom used to say to her as an alternative to Shut Up.). In what world would their shouting be appropriate?  We ate quickly and retired for a cup of tea in the parlor only to gulp that down when The Louds followed us in there. I had to take a deep breath and let it go. I didn't want my mind or spirit clouded with negativity when there are truly wonders to behold.

Race Relations

I am learning as I go and one of the lessons is that relationships between the races are complicated here. It is because I do not know the culture. I have also concluded that the description of race provided by our senior citizen Anglo guide in South Africa was a construct of the Afrikaners during apartheid and, frankly, bullshit.

In Kenya I found out the following:  NOT GOOD - black, negro, colored; GOOD - African. So there you go. 

Going Bad in Botswana

A bit of breakfast and we started off for Kenya.  Things started going bad before we left so I refrained from any physical contact with Sue and Ian and the Lodge staff and got my compromised self into the first the three vehicles that would take us to the airport in Zambia.  The downward turn continued in one of the cars when I had to ask them to stop for my churning stomach.   Thought I got lucky when that didn't come to pass but then fainted dead away for about three minutes according to my family - eyes wide open.  I was up front with the driver who was wide-eyed himself when that went down.  Unfortunately, we then had to get into a small boat to cross the river and get visas, and go through customs in Zambia.  Once at the airport, Ron insisted on a wheelchair from then on.

A flight to Harare, a short lay-over with us in the plane, and then a few more hours into Nairobe.  The worst part was the smells - the meal service with exotic spices and a full planeload of people, many of whom who do not share a Westerner's idea of cleanliness.  Rough, that.

Once in Nairobe, we joined countless others going through customs, claiming the luggage and awaiting our driver who was not at the ready once we left the airport.  I had an angel helping me all the way from the plane, pushing my wheelchair, getting me to the front of the line at customs, collecting the luggage for all four of us, and calling the person who was supposed to pick us up on her cell phone.  She even wheeled me to the parking lot, right up to the van.  She was probably in he mid-20's and weighed about 120 pounds.  I always get these small people pushing me in wheelchairs.  By the way, I am pretty convinced that all this mischief was caused by Malarone, the malaria meds I had been taking.  So much of this mirrored the experience Joan and I had in India.  She had to take care of me all by herself there but this time I had three people to tend to me.

Once we were collected at the airport, my heart did sink to hear that there would be a 45 minute drive to Giraffe Manor.  When we finally arrived, it was 10 P.M. and I could not participate in the greeting, tour, or late dinner. Tony, one of the many fabulous staff here, recommended camomile tea in my room and by the time it arrived I was in bed with the mosquito netting drawn.  A few sips of tea and out.  

A Man on a Mission

Good bye Zimbabwe hello Botswana.  No air travel today - our transfer was completed in three different vehicles.  I am not sure why so many changes, but that seems to be the way of it.  In Kasane we were picked up by the Lodge driver along with Sue and Ian from England who were then with us on all the game drives and meals.  We became fast friends in a few days.  With a small number of guests at the Lodge (17, I think) we enjoyed many conversations with people from Australia, Scotland, and the US.  It's a great part of traveling.

We ate a hasty lunch about 3 P.M. and set off afterwards for our first game drive.  Our driver, Bee, was passionate about his land and very knowledgeable about all the animals and the ecosystem.  A rather serious young man, I liked seeing him smile when we made a joke.  A little challenge to understand him, but you do get used to the cadence and pronunciation.

The Lodge was a short drive from Chobe National Park and the game drives were on sand tracks in 9 passenger vehicles.  Those in the back seat had a particularly challenging go of it through the bumps and potholes and we were all airborne a few times.

Because we were at the beginning of spring, the animals had to make their way to the Chobe River to drink and many swim daily to a large island for the tender grass still  available there.  It was interesting to see so many species there going about their business in harmony.  We could take a lesson.

Bee had ambitious plans for the 6 of us the following day.  Up at 5:30 A.M., a bit of coffee and toast, and then off for the entire day.  Later, we'd eat a packed breakfast and then have a several hour boat ride on the River with a picnic lunch.  Back to the Land Rover for an afternoon game drive and then home.  We started driving to the east side of the Park in hopes of seeing the big cats.  Bee was determined and he made it happen.  First, lions and then a leopard!  The leopard, especially, is rarely seen so this was truly special.  Visitors are not allowed to leave their vehicles or the sandy track and this leopard was sleeping under a bush some 100 yards away from the road.  Dear Bee took off toward the bush and said I am counting to three!!  He did, we got our photos, and back we went on track.

We stopped for breakfast at a place close to the river that had toilets, concrete tables and benches, and LOTS of monkeys.  They are opportunistic creatures as we found out when Sue was holding a sausage up to her mouth only to have it snatched from her hand by a leaping monkey in less than 2 seconds.  She gave a scream as did the monkey.

The boat ride on the river was a highlight as we saw hundreds of elephants, many crossing from the mainland to the island for food.  Whole herds would cross with the matriarch leading the way where the water was shallow so they could have their feet on the  bottom.  The little ones were placed between the adults to benefit from a push-pull and the occasional grasping of an adult tail for more speed since the babies were often under water.  We were so close to these huge animals that it was a bit daunting.  We also had to concern ourselves with the hippos who, when we got too close to their territory, would rear up and bellow and even give chase!

We were starting to sag a bit by the afternoon game drive but Bee persisted until the grand finale - a whole pride of lions resting in what Bee described as their 5-star hotel, large bushes affording great shade for their siestas.  The male was surrounded by his harem and babies and even woke up to yawn for us. Back to the lodge about 6 P.M. for a much-needed shower before dinner.  Bee is the man!

A Wheelie in Victoria Falls

A morning trip to Victoria Falls with yet another wonderful guide.  The people we have had with us in Zimbabwe make me love this place.  We got to the Falls a bit early to beat the crowds and were at the beginning of the trail listening to an interesting explanation of the environs.  A feeling swept over me that was much akin to those I'd experienced in the Amazon and in India and it was no bueno.  I sat on a little brick wall, hoping to collect myself but it was not to be.  With reluctance, I announced that I was probably not going to be fit for the nearly three hour walk around the Falls.  Bless the guide who immediately called his office to summon a wheelchair.  During our wait, we saw many groups set out for the Falls, my heart sinking a bit with each influx.  Then, a very slight man appeared with a wooden chair on wheels that would not have worked for a larger person.  I gratefully had a seat, settled my purse in my lap, and kept my arms closely by my sides.  The dear man pushed me up hill and down, me regretting all of the nonstop eating I've done over the last 10 days.  When the going got rough Ron had to help out.  The wheeling from spot to spot allowed me to get up for all the spectacular shots of the Falls and I was so grateful it worked out.  

Lion baby update

One of the staff here in Botswana explained to Ron that the lion babies need to belong to a pride. Since they aren't fit to join other lions, humans fill the bill. They need tactile contact and socialization which we provide. That made me feel a lot better.

Lion Babies

Our next adventure was a walk with lions in a Rehabilitation Center run by donations for the purpose of returning young lions to the wild. The process takes several years and to date there have been no successful returnees. However, it appears that a pride may soon be ready for complete release. People (ourselves included) pay quite a bit for tickets to spend an afternoon with the lions, knowledgeable guides, several handlers and an armed guard whose job it is to protect the guests from any large animals that might approach from the surrounding area.

We all got to pet the 18 month old lionesses that were ready to be moved to the next phase in their rehabilitation and then to walk behind them for quite a while. This was a little zoo-like for us but certainly a way for the Center to generate revenue. The handlers were obviously very fond of the animals who were well-treated. I believe the cubs were either orphaned or born in captivity.  Still it felt a little bit like when I saw the tribal dancers who swung into action as soon as the crowds disgorged from the airport. Oh yes, this is the Africa these tourists want to see.

You can see how wonderful these lions were if you get a chance to look at my photos on Facebook. The older pair were the ones we walked with and we got to pet the  younger pair (less than a year old) but I decided instead to look with my eyes. The guide said the younger ones were very naughty. I liked that.

A Beer on the Zambezi

So much has happened in such a short time that I can hardly wrap my head around it.  Yesterday was a rather godawful 2-plane ride to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, both flights crammed to the gills with what I might term more than a few ugly americans.  There was a 50-person ski club from Dallas, half of whom were sick with colds and fevers and only a few of whom saw fit to cover their mouths when sneezing or coughing.  Heavy sigh.  Then when we landed in Zimbabwe, we had to queue for our visas.  Since the four of us were in the back of the plane, The Fifty with all their luggage, plus most of the rest of the passengers were all ahead of us.  The process went as follows:  Tell health aide worker that we were not from West Africa; tell uniformed man that we wanted only a single visit visa; stand in line for 45 minutes to reach one of three customs officials and spend at least 5 minutes per person for passport to be scrutinized and stamped repeatedly; collect luggage from gated areas; push bags one at a time through scanner (including carry-ons) and jockey for position with some of The Fifty to get your bags through since they seemed to take an exceptionally long time to complete the entry process.  Travel can be taxing.

Since we have a luxurious accommodation (really) our driver was there to deal with all our luggage and to ferret us through The Fifty who were blocking the only exit with themselves and their luggage.  We left hoping not to see them again during our stay.  Ah, The Victoria Falls Safari Lodge.  If you look on line, you can believe all the photos because it is wonderful.  A few wart hogs keep the grasses trimmed and they were there to greet us which we appreciated.

At 4:30 P.M. we were picked up for our Sunset Cruise on the Zambezi River.  The staff and especially the captain have a passion for the river and its animals and we were fortunate enough to be seated near him to get in on all of his sightings and animal lore.  You can see photos from the cruise on Facebook.

Today was exhausting and fabulous.  We always start very early and we were picked up at 7:15 A.M. for our canoe trip on the river.  WOW!  More like zodiac rafts with kayak paddles and we were on the river working hard for about 2 hours.  The hour-long trip to the canoe spot was in a truck minus shock absorbers or paved roads but breakfast and the beautiful river awaited.  Ron and I switched off front and back in the canoe and good that we knew how to navigate because we went through about three series or rapids and you had to paddle your ass off to make it.  Once when I was steering we did do a 360 but not until we were in calmer water.  More embarrassing than dangerous.  A great lunch upon our return and, blessedly, a short ride home.

I am too tired to go on so will write about our afternoon adventure next time.  Oh - and that beer at lunch was a winner!  I rarely drink and almost never beer but darn that was good.

All the Children of the World

Yesterday was a drive to the beautiful wine country which starts about 45 minutes outside the Cape Town.  Spectacular views of the mountains, vineyards, and lush farm country comprising the area around the city.  Highlights included a buffet lunch at a local farm with gourmet offerings alongside typical South African fare.  By far the best meal I've had here.

En route home we stopped near Stellenbosch and happened upon a man with his young son walking their little doggie.  We talked to him for about 15 minutes about his life, work, and experiences, particularly since the lifting of Apartheid.  He and his wife are school teachers in this town of predominantly colored people.  When I asked about his ethnicity, he said Cape Malay but apparently his and most people's  primary identification is South African.  Our guide Graham explained that this was a result of the work of Nelson Mandela who saved the country from certain ruin by unifying the races and tribes when Apartheid was defeated.  Once de Klerk (Afrikaner) stepped down as prime minister and Mandela was elected, he and Bishop Desmond Tutu  instituted a two-year period of pardon.  Whites and others who carried out acts of terror and violence to support the White government were invited to ask forgiveness from their black and colored victims or from the families of victims.  Doing so resulted not only in absolution for the perpetrators but in freedom from prosecution by the new government.

We had a black guide in Johannesburg and a white guide in Cape Town and I got different perspectives from talking with and listening to the two of them.  Our accommodation in Jo'burg was owned by a wealthy white family and staffed by black and colored people.  These terms used to describe race in South Africa are challenging for me.  I asked quite a few questions of Graham.  So I get black and white but what does colored mean?  And Indians appeared to have their own category. Colored people could be Asians and others who looked to me like  Pacific Islanders. I was quite uncomfortable with the labels although Graham kept assuring me that many race-related words that made me cringe were just fine in today's South Africa.  If I get a chance, I am going to ask a black person here what they think.  Our black guide talked extensive about Nelson Mandela who is revered by all and considered the savior of his people as well as the savior of his nation.

At it's best, South Africa does not discriminate between the races or the sexes.  Still, many live in areas consisting only of whites, or blacks, or coloreds which may be the result of economics and not segregation.  I don't know if schools are integrated at the primary and high school levels but suspect it is like the US and depends more on where people can afford to live.  Education is a priority in this country and the literacy rate is reported at 70% which, if true, is great progress.

Like most things in life, the large issues are complex and without easy answers.  In the few decades since the fall of Apartheid, the country appears to have turned around on many levels.  Opportunities are increased, the standard of living has improved, and there is more harmony among the people.  But there is persistent corruption in the government, there are black and colored people living in abject poverty (terrible slums in parts of Cape Town and Jo'burg), there are many homeless people living on the streets and there problems with drugs and alcohol abuse.   Sounds like many big cities in the United States.

Stayed Tuned

.....as our guide Graham says when we pass something on the road or something comes up in conversation that he wants to discuss at a later time.  We never quite know if we'll be returning to the matter, but there is no lack of interesting conversation.  We left the hotel yesterday morning, bound for the Cape Peninsula including Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope, the most southwest point of the African Continent where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans are said to meet.  If not right there, near enough.

We saw:  African Black Oystercatchers (birds), a small family of baboons, bonteboks (antelopes), an ostrich and African penguins. I really didn't expect to see animals during our South African stay but most of our time has been spent outside the city which provided good viewing opportunities.  There's been a steady improvement in the weather although yesterday required as many layers of clothing as I could muster.  Just happy to see the sun.

After admiring several expanses of white beach, we stopped at Hout Bay for a 30-minute boat ride to Seal Island under much calmer conditions than we'd had for Robben Island.  Wonderful coastline and a colony of seals, cavorting as expected.

Beautiful views at Cape Point without too many tour busses and then on to the Cape of Good Hope where I actually managed a photo of the sign without a person standing in front of it.  A bit of a climb for some fabulous ocean views.  We topped off the day with a trip to Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens where we made our way along the swaying Boomslang - the Tree Canopy Walk.  Many plants in bloom including yellow birds of paradise and a favorite plant called the Caroline.  I will have a photo of that one on Facebook.

For dinner we drummed up the strength to dine at a local Chinese restaurant.  I believe the owners were Chinese as was apparently the cook, but the food = not so much.

And so to bed but to sleep, perchance to dream?  NO. The across the street neighbors staged a rock concert from 7 P.M. until 1:20 A.M. at which time the police pulled the plug (literally) after Mr. C. protested twice to our hotel security guard.  About 3 hours sleep for me. Will I get a good night's rest tonight in preparation for our 5 A.M. departure tomorrow?  Stay tuned.

From the Mountains to the Sea

Left Jo'burg yesterday morning for Cape Town on a crowded flight but at least we did not have to deal with customs.  Drove to our hotel amidst high winds and chill with the ocean wild and wonderful.  The front of the hotel is all glass with a view of the sea.  It's a small place and Ron and I scored a lovely patio (although it's too cold to sit out there) and a bit of an ocean view.

Last night we went to the Victoria and Alfred (her son) Waterfront for shopping and dinner and a quick cab ride home.  Fell into bed only to awaken around 12:30 A.M. with both of us wide-eyed for two more hours.  Barely made it up in time for our excellent breakfast and my requisite two cups of coffee before meeting our guide, Graham, for the day's activities.  

We had big hopes that the sea would calm sufficiently an hour long ferry ride to Robben Island, the place where Nelson Mandela and countless political prisoners were interred during Apartheid.  We got there early and boarded the 60-year old ferry that was once used to bring both prisoners and their families from the mainland to the island.  There were rough seas, matey, and me without my dramamine.  On the return trip, I had to don my rain poncho and stand outside, bracing myself against the rail, and praying mightily that I would not be humiliated by succumbing to uncontrolled retching. There were several of us who could not believe our good fortune when the ferry finally docked at Cape Town.

Robben Island National Park is beautiful and terrible.  I did not feel the spirits of those who'd been there against their will, perhaps because many were freed after Mandela and the ANC prevailed. Our bus tour guide and our guide through Mandela's cell block were former political prisoners, both of whom radiated strength and serenity.  I asked Jama, one of the guides, how he could be so calm and steady in the face of all that had befallen him.  He smiled and answered simply, "Different circumstances."

Fortunately, I enjoyed lunch after our tumultuous time at sea.  Back in Cape Town, we kept our eyes on Table Mountain and decided, after a too brief shopping trip to the African Shop at the Waterfront, that we would drive to the mountain to see if the cable cars were running.   Yes they were and up we went, over 3,000 feet.  The cable car starts to rotate so there isn't really anything to hang on to but the ride is brief and spectacular, at that.

We saw animals, flowers, and the city in panorama, sometimes with half a cloud covering our view.  We all thought it was spactacular.

Jo'burg

Gotta' get used to a 9-hour time difference and catch up a bit on my sleep, but I am soldiering through the day with some great things to do and see.

Wonderful al fresco breakfast at our posh hotel and then our guide, Khuliso, picked us up in his Corolla. He assessed the situation and wisely asked his wife to deliver their 13-passenger van instead. Worth the wait as we departed in the luxury mobile. Our first stop was the Apartheid Museum. It is hard to grasp the political upheavals that have occurred during our lifetime and that Apartheid did not end until the early 1990's. One of the pamphlets we got says "Apartheid is exactly where it belongs - in a museum." My favorite was a quote from Nelson Mandela, "Deep down in every human heart, there is mercy and generosity." This from a person imprisoned most of his adult life because of his political and humanitarian beliefs.

Our next stop was the Southwestern Township, Soweto for short. It was one of two areas available for black residents living in Johannesburg during Apartheid. Khuliso promised us the good, the bad, and the ugly. First the good - a newer part of the township with substantial brick homes owned by more prosperous residents. The bad we saw only from a distance - areas ruled by gangs and nowhere for us to safely visit. Finally the ugly which were literally corrugated tin shacks minus running water and electricity. Some progress was noted with water spigots available at the ends of the streets and electricity for those enterprising enough to tap power from the city poles. One of the best sights was all the children coming home in their school uniforms.

We toured Nelson Mandela's house in Soweto. Setting the record straight, his name was Rolihlahla Mandela but he was given the name Nelson when he went to school because the teachers there could not pronounce his first name. Same thing happened to my Swedish grandfather when he emigrated to Canada and the customs agent decided his last name should be Walden.

We concluded our Soweto tour with a buffet lunch featuring South African food. I am good with all but exotic meats (for me anything beyond the very ordinary) so I passed on the tripe and sausage even after Khuliso said it was beef. Did enjoy all the vegetables and the spicy chutney I had. Also the entertainment by some men from Zimbabwe (large numbers have emigrated to South Africa) and the numerous street vendors, acrobats and singers. Everyone's trying to make a living.

As evening falls, the four of us are having a complimentary foot massage at our hotel that is quite a treat. I think Johannesburg is a city progressing.

The City Of Gold

Finally left Atlanta and, once airborne, we got right to work figuring out all the electronics involving our seats and downing the first of many meals and snacks.  It hadn't been dark too long and most of us stretched out and closed our eyes, some (like me) faring  better than others with the sleeping.  Sleeping greatly helped to pass the 15-hour flying time.  No problems with customs or finding our shuttle sent from the hotel.  "Lucky" was there waiting and after a quick stop at the Versatel for Rands, (South Africa is the only country in which we will not use US dollars) we headed for the car.

Seat belts were barely buckled when Lucky wanted to know in one sentence what we say to Nelson Mandela if he presented himself that minute.  Oh - and we passed the acid test when he asked if we'd watched Mr. Mandela's funeral on TV.  Thank God J. and L. had done so and, full disclosure, Ron and I let Lucky think it was a group response.  Still, I really liked his question.  My answer was, "Thank you, Mr. Mandela, for all you have done for humanity."  I told Lucky I thought Mandela was one of a few persons in our time who has worked for peace and equality in a way that impacted the entire world.   Lucky is a passionate young man who speaks 6 languages and is obviously trying to make a good path for himself in life.
         
 Johannesburg is called "The City of Gold" and, now that it is combined with Pretoria, the capital, the population is over 10 million people.  En route to our posh hotel, Lucky thought we needed to see where Mandela lived while he was president so we stopped there and looked around a bit but only from the street.  It's lovely.

At the hotel, we were greeted like foreign dignitaries  with hot towels and what looked like the whole staff lined up for our arrival.  Our bags were in our rooms immediately and all the amenities nicely explained.  Later, in the hotel dining room, we had fabulous yet simple food although we did wait 45 minutes for our main courses.  All was done with a flourish - the silver domes came off our entrees all at once with anxious looks to see if we were pleased.  Indeed.

Against All Odds

A few challenges on the home front the week before departure (leaking water softener, potential root canal and more) did nothing to prepare us for what lay ahead as we prepared for our trip to Africa.  On Sunday, I got the expected notice to check in for our flights today which, when I happily  attempted same, resulted in a strange message that thwarted my attempts.  So let's try that again a few times since you never know what may change from one key stroke to the next.  No boarding passes.  Instead Ron and I were instructed to bring 2 credit cards to the airport the last 4 digits of those requested matching nothing in our arsenal.  On the advice of my clever brother-in-law and traveling companion, I called the airlines and was on hold for the most part, listening to ungodly music and asking the agent to repeat almost everything she said. Elder ears.  After 30 less than delightful minutes, Delta told us that we could present ourselves at the airport on September 15th but that unless we produced the credit cards requested, our tickets would be canceled and we would be required to purchase two new tickets.  Note:  We are traveling to and from Africa flying business class.

Kudos to Scott Hutchinson, our agent at Let's Fly Cheaper.  He took over the problem on Sunday about 3 P.M. and worked on it for 4 hours.  He anticipated continued issues but advised that perseverance would likely work for us.  The next kindness came from our friend Terry M. who picked us up at 4:30 A.M. for the trek to LAX.  An hour at the Delta counter did the trick! The supervisor there got it straightened out after I assured him that 1) I was not M.A. Clausen; 2) I knew no one in NYC and had not been there recently; and 3) I had not booked a flight from Caracas to JFK to Tel Aviv.  Apparently, this exotic itinerary was prepared by a travel agent in Caracas using my personal information.   Ron had no problem.  What a guy.  I must admit to a flash of paranoia when the agent discovered the alternate route.  I harkened back a few months when someone used our credit card to book a trip from the east coast to South America.  I am happy to say that I quickly let that one go.

Further adventures in Atlanta.  Comfortably ensconced in the Delta Sky Lounge and enjoying a latte and nice salad, a guy near me was overheard on his phone saying that no international flights are leaving the airport because of a "suspicious device" that is currently being investigated.  He says no one can check in for overseas flights.  We have a bit of a layover here so it may well be resolved prior to our scheduled boarding time.  If not, we will arrive late in Johannesburg.  Breaking news:  All is well!  You gotta' love travel.  This trip is definitely going to be one day at a time.