Culture Clash

June 30, 2012

A few thousand people on the ferry jockeying for food in a buffet is not a recipe for improving international relations, particularly when one has not had one's coffee or a good night's sleep. And I admit that I have been drawn back into the clutches of caffeine, there being no brewed decaf. Plus, if you are going to have caffeine, there is no better coffee than this, my friends, and I think the rest of the Scandinavian countries will be as excellent!

When we get to our hotel this evening, I will be in need of a major overhaul. There will be wet laundry hanging in the bathroom for a few days but I am going to splurge and have the hotel launder my jeans, preparing to pay whatever the price. (I think it was $3 for a pair of underwear in Denmark.)

Later: We are getting a reputation with the group for bringing up the rear. It happened again this morning as we were exiting the ship and realized that we had the place darn near to ourselves. John says we must improve. Our dear Norwegian group leader, Kari, met us nonetheless with a large pink rose waving above her head to make her easy to see. We've already had several interesting conversations with her.

 

First stop in Oslo was to the Norwegian National Opera and Ballet by the Snohetta architectural firm. At a cost of $700 million, it's Norway's most expensive building.

Next was Frognerparken Sculpture Park featuring over 200 works of Gustav Vigeland. A huge and spacious park, we really didn't do it justice but with the blustery wind and occasional rain, we protested our return to the bus a bit less than we might have if the sun were shining.

From there, a brief trip up the mountains to lunch at the 100 year-old Holmenkollen restaurant that serves the sports enthusiasts who like mountain hiking and ski jumping. It's the site of the Nordic World Ski Championships. It's a big 'un - that ski jump - made of steel. We didn't go to the top so Caroline and I were spared that. We did, however, have some wonderful views of the Oslo fjord on the way down.

Finally to the hotel which appears to be located in the heart of the city to settle in for our stay in Oslo.

P.S. I am going to launder my own jeans since the hotel charges $25.



 

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To Be or Not to Be

June 29, 2012

Our first stop today was to visit the Little Mermaid since we'd only seen the back of her during our boat trip on the canal. I would have been quite sad had we not be able to see her in her entirety. She is small but perfectly placed near the shore in a little cove and looks quite at home there.

Then we had a wonderful sight-seeing opportunity as we made our way along the sea coast to Kronborg Castle, Shakespeare's inspiration for Hamlet. It was stormy today with a choppy sea, low clouds and rain, so a perfect setting in which to imagine the Prince of Denmark in all his brooding glory.

The castle did not disappoint with its impressive halls and wonderful views of the sea. There is an attached church accessible from the castle although us commoners had to use the outside entrance. It is said that the various queens did not like coming to this remote castle since it had been configured and decorated more for the kings and their sport. I don't see the objection, myself.

John had been anticipating the trip to Kronborg as the highlight of our stay in Denmark due in large part to the presence of the Holger the Dane, a statue secreted below ground who, according to legend, would come to life in defense of the castle should it ever be invaded. Toward the end of the tour, he determined that Holger was not on the itinerary and that we would soon be back on the bus. It's a good thing that old people need to use the facilities with some frequency and that they don't hasten to or from because he found out from a helpful employee that Holger was ensconced but a few minutes walk down some nearby stairs. He and Caroline made haste and won the prize. When I spotted them topside, they told me that we could run down and see him and so off we went. We had a private viewing with Mr. H. and then proceeded at a good clip back to the bus, beating out at least one of the other tour members because we were willing to run a bit. Inspired by youth, I was.

 

 

We collected ourselves en route to Louisiana, Denmark's leading contemporary art museum where we had a nice lunch and enjoyed the art as well as the grounds. It was raining quite steadily but we had jackets and umbrellas and walked around the beautiful lawns, gardens and sculptures. Back to the bus for our drop off at the port and our 2,000 passenger ferry.

We had a very adequate room with two beds and an en suite bathroom, thank God. Enjoyed being out on the deck for a few hours as we left port and then it was time for the Danish buffet feast for dinner after which we lost the obligatory kroner at the casino playing Black Jack (Ron, Caro and John) and the slot machines (me). It didn't take long so we had plenty of time left to play a few card games in the coffee bar where they have free WiFi. It's all so civilized and European.

We cannot count the number of languages we have heard on board ship today. One of the funny things is how many Danes come up to speak to Ron. When he stares back at them blankly, they realize he does not speak Danish. They know their own, these people.

Tomorrow the fjords and Oslo.

 

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I Can See for Miles and Miles and Miles

June 28, 2012

We took no small delight in the fact that after breakfast we could retreat to our rooms and leisurely get ready for the day while the others attended the lecture mentioned in yesterday's entry. We walked to a beautiful botanical garden and Rosenborg Castle, the home of the crown jewels although not the royal family. It was built by Christian IV as a summer home but none of the monarchs wanted to live there. It is small, as castles go, with dark rooms, for the most part. More appealing were the Royal Crowns (not worn by the moderns) and the Queen's jewelry.

Since the walk took about 45 minutes, we did not linger long at the castle because we were due at lunch with the group. All of us were free to spend the afternoon as we wished.

The four of us walked to another part of the town near the water to the Church of Our Savior - Vor Frelser's Kirke. Our plan was to climb the 400 steps to the top of the copper-covered spiral tower which enabled a wonderful view of the city. We navigated the may steep steps on the inside of the tower without much trouble until we were suddenly propelled into the open air with a lattice grill on one side of the metal steps (gulp) and the tower on the other. Caroline got outside first and said, "Mom, you're going to lose your s*!#." Once outside, I damn near did. (I mention here that she and I are not friends of high places.) I did manage to get outside - somewhat frozen and clutching the building side of the walkway while Caroline took temporary shelter back inside the spire. You will be proud to know that we both eventually and cautiously made our way to the top. Well, except for the last several steps because there was a logjam of people there taking photos. After some pictures of our own, Caroline made haste to the bottom but I took my time, remembering that it was easier to back down steep steps like you do when descending a ladder. That I did, not caring how long it took while John and Ron hung out atop without a care in the world.

Our next destination was pretty crazy. A block from the church stands the "Alternative City" of Christiania - prime real estate on the waterfront housing a collection of ramshackle buildings and hippies too numerous to count. The community started in the early 1970's commune which left Danish law at the entrance. Although there have been rocky times, it thrives today and welcomes visitors as long as these rules are followed: no cameras, no running, and it is illegal to sell hash. Then you enter the green zone where you see booth after booth of merchants selling hash, marijuana and all the paraphernalia your heart, if so inclined, could desire. Reportedly, there are good restaurants and produce that looked fresh and appealing and we did enjoy the various booths with clothing and jewelry. We made a few purchases and left happy with no help from any of the products from the green zone, thank you. Not surprising, we met no others from our group during our visit here.

Back home and footsore, we rested and then walked to dinner al fresco. Good food, not particularly fancy and with only soda and bottled water. The bill? About $100. Food and everything else is very heavily taxed here.

Tomorrow we pack up early and leave the hotel after breakfast, luggage in hand. We will spend the day in Denmark and then off to the boat for our passage to Oslo.

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FOOTSORE AND FANCY FREE

June 27, 2012

 

This morning, we had a shorter albeit interesting lecture by Mikkel Holm, a man who returned to Denmark and to the University for a more conventional life as an historian after having trained as an actor in NYC. After his talk, he led us on a tour of the old historic area in which our hotel is located. We were armed with audio devices like you'd use in a museum so that we could all hear his remarks. Helpful, since our group numbers 30 and it's a challenge to keep us all properly herded.

I believe I am getting a good sense of the city, at least as far as what is within walking distance of our hotel. We've walked to all of our destinations except yesterday when we took public transit to the Art and Design Museum. Love those good walking shoes and I cleverly brought along two pair.

This afternoon half of us walked to Christiansborg Castle while the rest chose to visit a museum. You can guess that some members of our foursome were particularly in favor of the castle but I must commend their choice because our guide was exceptional and very knowledgeable about the castle. Danish royalty, much like the British, have no power in the government but seem to be quite beloved by the people. The current monarch is a very tall (over 6 feet) and stately 70-year-old woman. She is married with two handsome sons and 8 grandchildren, all of whom mingle frequently with their subjects. Later, I dipped into a museum across the courtyard while Ron stayed outside on a nice bench and enjoyed himself relaxing and checking out the street scene.

The Danes love to be outdoors and moving. Whatever the weather, they can be seen out and about on their bicycles, occasionally are at odds with the pedestrians who need to be quite alert to avoid mishap. The cycling appears to have several benefits since I have seen very few people who are not fit in spite of eating all of those delicious breads and pastries and drinking their beloved beer. You know they have to keep moving to have any hope of maintaining a decent physique. We should take a lesson.

Tonight we had dinner in Tivoli Gardens and then had a chance to look around. We stayed until 9 P.M. when the lights came on but it was, of course, not dark so we got the idea if not the full effect. John could get no takers for the crazy rides. For a brief moment, I contemplated the roller coaster that went crazily upside down but then we computed that it cost $10 to ride the thing so we walked on. Tomorrow the Sisks have the day planned since, as you may recall, we won't be receiving the lecture on Hans Christian Andersen and Soren Kierkegaard which I probably would quite like but I'd much rather be with my family. We've got some exploring to do, Lucy!

 

FAMOUS ALL OVER TOWN

June 26, 2012

 

We've seen signs featuring "CLAUSEN" on buildings and again today on a public bus we were taking to a museum. The Danes enjoy it when they find out our last name. We've come home1

We started the day with a wonderful breakfast at the hotel featuring some of the best bread I've ever had. I was thrilled to see skorper - a very crisp round bread that was part of my childhood in MN. My Swedish mother would get it from the bakery as a treat. Many people must find them appealing because when I went back for a second piece, they were gone and were not replenished. Good information for tomorrow

Next up was a three-hour lecture on all things Danish. I am not sure the boys will be attending the second three-hour session set for Thursday and, since they require a bit of supervision when roaming the city, Caroline and I will do our duty and forego it as well. Hard to be indoors for that period of time when there is a whole fascinating city to be explored. Tomorrow we will attend the lecture since it will be foreshortened to include a guided walk through the historic part of the city.

We spent the early afternoon at the Museum of Art and Design which I found quite good. I remembered my mom purchasing several pieces of Danish modern furniture in the late 50's - blond and all. It waned in appeal as the years went on and I think it was finally relegated to our front porch. Now the chairs from that period are again appealing - and pricey. From the museum, we walked on to a boat ride on the canal. What great photos we got and had nary a drop of rain today and, often, some sun. Most welcome.

 

 

 

Tonight we had dinner at a very small restaurant that features a traditional Danish Christmas dinner. Santa (really) came out with trays of food featuring blazing sparklers and singing "Jingle Bells." Well it's never too early to get your Christmas on.

The four of us took a walk after dinner and now, at 10 P.M. , the sun is casting lovely soft shadows across the city. God nat (good night.)

COME RAIN OR COME SHINE

 

Come Rain or Come Shine June 25, 2012

Another full flight with some snatches of sleep and almost no room to move for us tall people. Both our planes had only a single aisle with three seats on each side and if the person in front of you reclined his seat, you were unable to eat your food unless you held the plate up. I know you've been there and will agree that it ain't pretty. I told my seat mates, the delightful father and son bound for med school, that en route home, Ron and I were traveling business class and leaving the kids in coach. Son looked at Dad and said, "Oh no - don't leave me behind in coach!" When baby earns his MD, he can pay his own way in business class, yes?

A very civilized queue for customs and we were on to meet our Road Scholar guides. We all climbed onto a very nice tour bus and had a great look at the city for a few hours to mitigate the wait for our rooms which would not be ready until 3 P.M. There were two LARGE groups of travelers at the hotel which was crowded and bustling but we waited while a select few got their rooms immediately. You guessed it - the Clausens were among them. I am sure it is my husband's surname that enabled that piece of luck. As it turned out, the room was not configured as we'd requested so John and Caroline took ours and we promptly got another. That sweet-talking Mr. C. can arrange darn near anything.

The four of us ventured out for a walk and some lunch which was taken al fresco. We are in Europe for gosh sakes. There were intermittent showers that compromised the canvas cover over our lunch spot and just after we moved to a better locale, there was a loud sploosh! where Ron had been sitting. Not only is he clever, he's lucky.

 

 

 

 

The rain let up and we saw the sun during our short walk back to the hotel for a much needed nap.

Now we're preparing to formally meet the rest of the people in the group. I am going to adopt Joan's trick of making a note or two which will help me recall names more easily.

I am envisioning a retreat to our rooms just after dinner for a long night's sleep. We want to be prepared for a full day tomorrow.

 

ANGELS WATCHING OVER ME Oh LORD!

June 26, 2012 I thought we left in plenty of time to catch our 7 A.M. flight this morning when our dear friend Terry picked us up at 4:45 A.M.  Light traffic to LAX  but upon arrival I let the hand wringing begin.  Oh the throngs in line for the self-serve check in and oh the ominous signs saying "one hour cut off".  I think we made it with minutes to spare.  Thank God there was time for essentials - that would be Starbucks and the bathroom - in that order.  Our flight was full and the gate people stopped allowing carry on baggage as we approached.  I knew Ron was not going to be parted with our 20 pound camera case, but it turns out they were only barring luggage on wheels.     It was a smooth flight and everyone was pleasant.   We enjoyed a view of the New York skyline as we flew into Newark and had to move down only a couple of gates to get our flight to Copenhagen.  I always enjoy seeing the different passports as we board the plane for oversees flights.  Oh and score!  I have an outlet in my seat so can charge up the iPad lest the battery get low while I enjoy my games and writing to you.  Life is good and a scant night's sleep can be ignored when faced with all the adventures to come.  Talk to you from Copenhagen, my friends.