Saturday, June 6, 2009
Icy Straight Point
One of our travel challenges was to figure out where we were on the planet. I have no small need to know the lay of the land when I travel, and it would have been really good to have purchased a decent map before leaving. I did have the good sense to bring along a book called Alaska's Inside Passage, but the book did not contain a map of the state or its relationship to Canada. I figured out all of the above once we got home. "Yeah, now!" as the old family saying goes. One of the best descriptions I heard about the state was to ball up your right hand into a fist and extend your thumb. That is the basic shape of the state but then you must add on the inside passage which would run along from your elbow toward your shoulder at a nice arc. It's so odd to me that Alaska is not part of Canada and that it's comprised of the main land mass as well as the inside passage that is clearly more reasonably Canadian. Our luck it's in the US, I tell you. Also, when we were on the railroad in Skagway, we could have continued past the White Pass Summit to Whitehorse in the Yukon Territory. At one point, we were very near the juncture of Alaska, British Columbia and the Yukon Territory. One of the huge side benefits of travel for me is getting to know the geography of our wonderful world. I wonder why I find it so compelling when I didn't care much as a young student. I do like getting the picture.
Our ship left Skagway via the Lynn Canal and headed toward the open ocean, technically the Golf of Alaska. That was the only time that I noticed much movement on the ship, a slight to and fro, but not enought to cause problems. Icy Straight Point is basically a stopping point for the cruise ships which allows a look into the Glacier Bay National Park which is 22 miles north. Ships into the park are extremely limited (I am happy to say) and I don't think the Royal Carribean line is allowed. Only one ship at a time comes in to Icy Straight Point which is also excellent. Five years ago, the cruise line and the Huna Totem Corporation built this little complex at Icy Straight Point which is assessible only by tenders going routinely between ship and shore. The area is home to the village of Hoonah, a Tglingit community of 800. Factoid: The majority of Alaska's natives (comprising 16% of the population) are Indian, Eskimo and Aleut. In this area, most natives are Tglingit Indian.
The four of us took a tender to shore to meet our guide for a 2 1/2 hour kayak trip. Our guide was knowledgeable, kind and a total pleasure. His mother is Tglingit (pronounced Klingit) and his father European. He's developed this and several other businesses to keep his family going.
The kayaks were above average with a rudder operated by the guy in the back of the two-person kayak and our gear designed to keep any water out of the kayak. Alas, no one said anything about dangling sweatshirt sleeves that acted like a wick for poor Jackie who had to keep routinely wringing out out her sleeves. The guide said the tide must have been going out but then said, "Oops! It's only Jackie's shirt sleeves!" She was a trooper and never complained, even though it must have been pretty darned uncomfortable.
The sea was smooth as glass, and, except for a few sprinkles, we had a good go of it. We took off for a small island across the bay and were rewarded with the delightful sight of a bear and her cubs having a romp on the beach. The previous kayaking group followed the bears over as they swam from one island to another. All of us kept a respectful distance because, as you know, bears are very good swimmers and we did not want a race.
It was wonderful being outside, working a little bit (oh my - all those extra cruise food calories), seeing bears, enjoying the ocean, and learning about his culture and life from our guide. We'd also gotten to spend a little time hiking around the point of the island, seeing a whale, spotting starfish on the beach waiting for high tide, finding eagles' nests in the tall tress, and seeing them swoop betwen the sea and their nests. A really fine day!
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